Kari K.
About
blah blah, i eat, you eat. I'm a super taster, but I'll try anything once...
Recent Reviews
To Bulli or not to Bulli...
Restaurant: Next
Or - A rose by any other name...
I remember the weekend like it was yesterday. A hot summer night, in the city of Chicago. It was a perfect evening, both because my husband and I had gotten tickets to Next restaurant's Tour of Thailand; and it was the last dinner served at Ferran Adria's famed El Bulli. A twist of fate I simply could not chalk up to mere chance.
Neither was the chance we got to meet Dave Beran, in the kitchen after dinner. I asked some silly questions, and I'm sure looked like an idiot; but something really struck me that night. These guys aren't afraid of a challenge. They have big dreams, and they see the world a bit differently than your average Chicagoan. Than your average American, even.
Fast forward to a chilly, mid-February evening, months later. We managed to secure the elusive tickets. It was real, in an artificially surreal kind of way. Like I was watching myself from outside my body. Perplexing, to say the least; but not entirely unenjoyable.
The roses hung from the ceiling, suspended on fine, light wires. They faced downwards on each table, pointing to where your dinner show would be served. And, what a show it was.
The open was a slate plate with ice in a lime, and a tiny spoon with terragon. From the very first bite, all the way to the last - more than 6 hours later; this was the best food I have ever eaten. Now, I didn't love every single course- everyone's tastes are different, after all.
But, I'll go through the ones I'm still thinking and dreaming about, two months later.
Iberico ham sandwich - just meat on an airy, cracker-ey bread- but sublime happiness in three bites. I wished there were more of these, because it was the best I've ever tasted.
Carrot foam - above a coconut milk, in an angled crystal bowl. The bowl was almost as novel and fun as the foam! Its story is remarkable, as well. They only acquired 19 of them from a private collector, so they are constantly rewashing them. Chef Beran worries about chips and damage. I heart him even more...
Spheroid olive - This was a fun course for me, because I've always hated olives! It defied expectation and convention, and changed my mind entirely. I can and do love some olives now!
Cauliflower cous cous - Another fun plate for me, even though I still hate cauliflower. But, the artful presentation of such an earthy, low food was simply delightful. Tons of fun.
Shrimp suquet - Six ingredient dish that embodied the whole evening, quietly. It doesn't have to be complicated, but it has to be excellent. Those tiny shrimp were delectable. I wish I could eat that way more often.
Foie Gras panna cotta - I didn't love the foiesting from the Childhood menu, so I was delighted to realized how much the panna cotta changed my mind. Savory and sweet can live in harmony in one dessert, after all. Ha. I love being wrong.
Chocolate five ways - I know, I know it's cliche. If I could eat this plate for breakfast lunch and dinner, I would. But, I am normally a vanilla gal; so take it for what you will!
There was 29 courses, and it was an amazing, unforgettable show. The servers all chatted with me about the details, and I had many questions! I even got my Oct2011 Vogue signed by the chef and service staff. Inside, there was a great article about the closing of El Bulli, with great photos.
They were a bit hard to read, but I think it was Chef Dave Beran who wrote, "Legends never die." near his own signature.
Indeed, sir.
My fan girl crush just hit Ryan Gosling level.
Hey, girl.
Service
Educated,if
Decor
Low,key,unobtrusive
Dishes
Shrimp suquet, carrot foam, iberico ham sandwich
A Midsummer Day's Dream
Restaurant: The Publican
My husband and I were lucky enough to get a patio table in the middle of last summer; and boy was I glad for it.
I'm not a huge fan of the communal seating, especially when I can't sit next to my husband. And, when the already seated parties are also already shouting at each other. Oy vey.
Twelve minutes later, we sat outside in the glorious Chicago sun. I had a hard apple cider that blows most apples out of the water, (ok, it was two!) and the food started showing up.
Fries with a fried egg on top are frakking genius, as is squid ink pasta. I wish I had taken better notes, because we ate a bunch of plates I can't remember. Oh well, just have to go back next summer! lol
One of my culinary highlights for the year! Hands down.
Service
Attentive,if,helpful
Decor
Homey,light,bright
Dishes
Fried eggy fries
Party Series #1 1/17/12
Restaurant: Aviary
Aviary's party series kicked off with a bang - El Bulli style, and I'm so glad I was there!!!
Champagne to start, then pear & gin concoctions - which is funny, because I didn't think I liked gin, until that day!
My favorite of the night was the whisky sour with passionfruit foam, it had just the right balance of sweet and bite for me. Yum!
More alcohol, and the funniest conversation with a guy who played in a bell choir; which I have done in point of fact, for a few years! lol
Tons of fun, and I even sat next to Nick Kokonas at one point. Too bad I was still fangirl-geeking out, cuz I should have introduced myself! hehe...
Cannot wait to go back! ;)
Service
Good,dependant,not
Decor
Swanky,dark,loud
Dishes
Pork belly funion, fried risotto balls
#2 - Childhood v1 - 10/30/11
Restaurant: Next
Haha, yes - I'm THAT girl.
The one who stole your Next tickets like a thief in the night.
I have no regrets. My first Childhood was amazing. My second was even better. Yep, you read that right. lol
The food was incredible, the service impeccable. By now, I was getting recognized for joking with the staff - which I loved!
PB&J bite in a box: sublime. Initially confusing, but ambrosia in one bite. Actually two, cuz I squirted the hot peanut butter concoction all over my hand. No silverware for this round!
Chicken noodle soup: in a comically large bowl, unless you are accounting for taste! In which case, it was perfect.
Fish & chips: One of the most fun plates! Themed girl and boy plates for myself and my husband, Jamie.
Mac & cheese: Divine. The Parmesan cream cube was my personal favorite.
Autumn scene salad: Came out smoking, which was tough for me, so I didn't eat a lot of it.
Hamburger: Sooo good. Think of deconstructed bun what you will. I think it was delicious.
Lunch box: The single most fun round. The apple brandy fruit leather and the truffled oreo being my two standouts. The fact that I got an Alice in Wonderland lunchbox with Gremlins thermos inside? Must not have been a coincidence, I purport...
Foiesting and donuts: A strange play on savory and sweet, I got one cider donut and two licks in on the beater. Yep, they served the foie gras frosting on a vintage style beater. And, it was MORE fun licking it off!
Sweet potato pie: Barely had room for it, but the two bites were bourbon caramel heaven.
Hot cocoa: If you weren't stuffed by now, they make sure of it. This is the best hot cocoa I've ever had, and as a Midwest gal - I used to drink it often!!!
I couldn't wait to go back after this round, because the next Next outing was for my 31st birthday - late December. Grin.
Service
Punchy,with
Decor
Dark,inviting
Dishes
Truffled oreo and apple brandy fruit leather in the Lunch Box, chicken "noodle" soup, fish & chips
My first Next experience - Tour of Thailand 8/30/11
Restaurant: Next
I'll admit it, I caught the "cool kid" bug last summer - when Grant Achatz's newest restaurant was garnering a lot of press in the US.
I was intrigued by the very concept - food as an event?! It's genius, pure and simple; if executed flawlessly. And, at Next - it really is. Hands down, the best dinner of my year. (Until I went back for two rounds of Childhood, yeah... admit it. You're jealous. Ha.)
The Thai themed street food started off with a platter such as I have never had; but the flavors were strangely familiar - even though I've not been to Thailand, of the Pacific southwest yet! Steamed buns, crunchy prawn cake (was my personal favorite,) with a couple more bites. One was my husband's favorite, the shrimp ceviche on a mint leaf.
This is when dear husband and I look at each other and agree... Already it is worth the price of entry, both in time and money - which is no small sum. I spent probably 36 consecutive hours trying to score the ToT tix. I lucked into the Childhood release, and bought two rounds, like a smart kid!)
Each course comes out timed perfectly, even though it seems like a lot of food, or art to take in; I never felt rushed. The servers confounded me with ToT, but it was really more about my lack of Thai cuisine knowledge. I didn't know Tom Yum. But, I do now... hehe.
A few courses in, there was the most amazingly delicious catfish I've had in over 10 years; swimming in a sauce-pot of sweet caramel. I can't say as if I wasn't suspicious, because like a good little cheater - I'd googled the menu before we went. Yeah, so much for surprises; except I was still so surprised!
I, the Norwegian with an infamous sweet tooth - was TOO FULL for dessert. Oh sure, I sampled them both. One was dragonfruit with a rose companion; the other in a coconut shell and surprisingly delectable, considering I don't like fennel. And, it was in there. And, I wasn't offended. Haha...
After it was all over, the hostess offered to take us in for a tour of the kitchen. Where, my husband and I got to meet - swoon - Dave Beran. It was really the cap to our summer of amazing eats, and something I will never forget. Wish I woulda gotten a photo for my damn facebook stream... lol
Service
Personal,irreverant,fun
Decor
Clean,&,refined
Dishes
Curry beef cheeks, Pork tom yum, catfish in caramel sauce
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